![]() Because, for me, Conrad Gallagher's new restaurant offers the very worst of a particular kind of 'exclusive' service. I can only presume that the grim environment - which may work in winter but does not work in summer - has already affected the mood of the staff. ![]() Here, that leads you, like Dante, only downwards: the dining room has been placed in a basement of hollow, empty spaces and hard, ill-lit surfaces. With all that fresh, chemically cleaned animal skin making the room smell like the inside of a new Ford Mondeo (with extra executive trim), one's thoughts quickly turned to escape. The effect, in the broad, sepia-coloured ground-floor lounge, with its rows of empty chocolate-coloured leather chairs, was truly dismal. Perhaps the wealthy backers of Mr Gallagher's enterprise chose to launch in high summer specifically because they did not want to be troubled by too many customers while they found their feet. If ever there was a way to point up the acute soullessness of a place, this was it it was as if King's passion was sucking the life from the place and scaring away the punters. ![]() Wafting from the sound system in the men's toilets at Conrad Gallagher, the new eponymous restaurant from one of Dublin's most fêted chefs, was the famous recording of Martin Luther King's 'I have a dream' speech. ![]() Address: Conrad Gallagher, 179 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W1.ĭinner for two, including wine and service, at least £120 ![]()
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